In the kitchen
Earthy, floral and unmistakably saffron. A few threads go a long way, as long as you give them a little time first.
The one rule
Threads dropped straight into a pan give up only part of what they have. Steeping them first draws out the colour, taste and aroma, so a small pinch does the work of a large one.
Take 15 to 20 threads for a dish serving four. Crush them gently between your fingers, or grind them in a mortar with a pinch of sugar or salt to help them break down.
Cover with two or three tablespoons of warm water, milk or stock, hot but not boiling. Leave for 10 to 20 minutes, or longer, and watch it turn gold.
Add the liquid and the threads to your dish. Early in the cooking for even colour through rice or a sauce; near the end if you want the aroma at its brightest.
A Persian way: set the crushed threads on an ice cube and let it melt slowly. The cold draws the colour out gently and gives a deep, clear gold.
How much to use
Too much saffron turns a dish bitter. These amounts are a good place to begin; adjust to your own taste.
| Dish | Threads |
|---|---|
| Rice, pilaf or risotto for four | 15 to 20 |
| Paella or a stew for four | About 20 |
| A cake or a loaf | 15 to 20, bloomed in warm milk |
| Custard, rice pudding or ice cream | 10 to 15 |
| A cup of tea or warm milk | 3 to 5 |
Make something golden
For the centre of the table
Cook rinsed basmati until just tender. Mix a few spoonfuls with the bloomed saffron and a little melted butter, then layer it over the plain rice so the gold sits on top. Persian cooks let the bottom layer crisp into tahdig.
For something sweet
Bloom the threads in the warm milk your recipe already calls for, and fold it in with the wet ingredients. Scatter chopped pistachios over the top; a little rosewater or cardamom suits it well.
For a slower moment
Warm a cup of milk with three to five threads, a crushed cardamom pod and a spoonful of honey. Leave it off the heat for a few minutes before you drink it, so the colour can come through.
For a pot to share
Add a few bloomed threads to a pot of black or green tea, or steep them on their own in hot water with a strip of lemon peel. A slice of fresh ginger is a good companion.
Good company
Saffron is happiest with gentle flavours that let it come forward, and with the warm spices it has been cooked alongside for centuries.
Between pinches
Light fades saffron. Keep the vial in its box, in a cupboard away from the cooker.
Use a dry spoon or dry fingers, and close the vial straight after taking a pinch.
Saffron is at its best in its first year or so. You will find the best before date on the label.
Keep exploring
Grade A Persian Super Negin, handpicked in Iran and posted from the UK.
